What Are PFAS and Why Are They Harmful?

PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a family of chemical compounds comprising between 5,000 and 10,000 substances. Renowned for their resistance to water, heat, and corrosion, PFAS are widely used in non-stick cookware, waterproof products, and electrical insulation. They are commonly found in technical garments, footwear, kitchen tools, eyeglass lenses, cardiac stents, and even some pharmaceuticals. According to the OECD, more than 4,700 types of PFAS are employed to impart water-repellent and stain-resistant properties to textiles.

However, it is precisely their chemical stability that makes PFAS hazardous to human health and the environment. They accumulate in ecosystems and living organisms, posing risks to fertility, immune function, metabolism, and increasing the likelihood of certain types of cancer.

Impact on the Textile and Fashion Sector

The textile and fashion industries are among the most affected by the new regulation, given their widespread use of PFAS to achieve water and stain repellency in fabrics and footwear. Transitioning to sustainable alternatives will require significant investment in research and development to identify innovative materials and alternative treatments such as bio-based polymers and plant-based waxes.

The impact will be particularly significant for outdoor, sportswear, and performance fashion brands, many of which will have to redesign entire product lines. Some companies, like Patagonia, have already begun the transition away from PFAS, but the challenge remains complex. Industry reactions reflect a general sense of caution.

Francesca Rulli, co-founder of Ympact and creator of the 4sustainability® framework, urges the fashion industry to take responsibility for eliminating substances that science has proven to be harmful. “Over the past few decades, the race for stain-proof and waterproof fabrics has led to an excessive reliance on these substances—often where not strictly necessary. We’ve become accustomed to not worrying about stains and expecting extreme water-repellent performance, even from everyday garments. Moreover, PFAS are also used as auxiliaries in dyeing, printing, and finishing processes to enhance performance. Considering the health and environmental risks, we must rethink both production processes and product specifications, especially where PFAS are used more to avoid product returns than to meet real functional needs. Educating consumers is not easy, but clear information could encourage many to support this transition.”

Tax Measures and Environmental Monitoring

In addition to the gradual bans, the new law introduces a tax on PFAS in consumer products to incentivize reduction ahead of regulatory deadlines. Implementation details are still being finalized.

Giancarlo Di Blasi, Research and Development Director at Brachi Testing Services, explains: “The real issue will be defining precise testing methods and concentration thresholds—a technical yet decisive aspect for the regulation’s effectiveness. It will be interesting to see whether France extends the restriction to short-chain PFAS, as already addressed at the EU level through Regulation (EU) 2024/2462 for PFHxA (C6), or adopts a California-style approach based on measuring total fluorine content in products. In that case, clear and ambitious limits would need to be set, bearing in mind that California has capped PFAS content at 100 mg/kg, to be halved by January 1, 2027.”

The law also mandates PFAS monitoring in drinking water, reinforcing EU legislation that, as of January 2026, will require all member states to track 20 pollutants from this group. France also plans to include TFA (trifluoroacetic acid)—considered the most widespread PFAS according to Greenpeace—among the substances monitored in water and the environment. The results of environmental inspections will be published annually and made publicly accessible online.

Toward an EU-Wide PFAS Ban?

The EU took its first steps on PFAS in 2009 by banning perfluorooctane sulfonic acid (PFOS), classified as “potentially carcinogenic” by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. In 2020, the same fate befell perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), now officially recognized as carcinogenic, followed more recently by perfluorohexane sulfonic acid (PFHxS), widely used in firefighting foam.

A broader proposal is now on the table to extend restrictions to all PFAS. In February 2023, Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden submitted a joint request to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) to revise the REACH regulation accordingly. France has indicated its intention to support the initiative and, as evidenced by the newly passed law, is positioning itself as a regulatory front-runner.

A Challenge to Embrace

If more countries follow suit, the textile sector will need to accelerate its search for viable alternatives to remain competitive in an evolving regulatory landscape. Transforming investments in safer, more sustainable production processes into competitive advantages will be key.
This represents a radical shift for the entire sector, and the French law could be the catalyst: from material innovation to supply chain redesign, to balancing environmental sustainability with economic demands.

The clock is ticking toward 2026. Will the fashion industry rise to the challenge?
According to Rulli, phasing out PFAS requires a structured roadmap, akin to building a chemical management system across the supply chain.
“The first step,” she explains, “is risk assessment: analyzing the products and supply chains involved. Then, it’s essential to collect data from suppliers to identify possible PFAS exposure and validate findings through lab testing. The search for sustainable alternatives, from raw materials to treatments, must go hand in hand with close supplier collaboration to ensure an effective transition. Equally crucial are progress monitoring, internal training on PFAS risks, and consumer education. Finally, transparency: publishing verified data and achieving sustainability certifications reinforces a brand’s commitment. This process also drives innovation in the chemical industry, encouraging the development of safer formulations. The more companies adopt this strategy, the greater the momentum for research and innovation.”

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Among the chemicals traditionally used in fashion production processes, PFAS or PFCs are often in the dock. Reducing the use of PFASs and other hazardous chemicals is not trivial, however, because it subjects companies to the continual search for the best possible trade-off between performance and sustainability. Important support comes from implementation protocols such as CHEM 4sustainability aimed at implementing a responsible Chemical Management system which also is aligned with best global methodologies such as ZDHC.

PFAS – also known by the old acronym PFCs – have been used for years as Durable Water Repellent (DWR) and that is, treatments for outdoor clothing, equipment and footwear that can repel water by waterproofing materials.

• Science proposes their elimination for a number of objective reasons. Here are a few.
• PFAS persist in the environment longer than any other man-made substance, dispersing through both water and air.
• Their release causes contamination of groundwater and consequently drinking water, and conventional water purification techniques are often ineffective.
• Some PFASs accumulate in living organisms and concentrations increase as we move up the food chain (biomagnification process).
• PFAS bind to proteins, “storing” in the blood or organs such as the liver.

The advantage and together the limitation of these poly- and per-fluorinated compounds, in essence, is the extreme strength of the alloy between carbon and fluorine that characterizes them and makes them effectively non-degradable. Because of their chemical structure, in other words, PFASs accumulate in the environment making contamination almost irreversible. What is more serious is that they enter the food chain with serious effects on human health, including

• Increased cholesterol levels
• Compromise of the immune system
• Increased risk of cancer
• Disruption of thyroid hormone
• Decreased effects of vaccination
• Impacts on weight of unborn children

Brands’ commitment on PFAS

The fashion response has been to fall back on shorter-structure compounds such as C6s, which are less persistent but still dangerous. We mention first and foremost the outdoor clothing companies that make extensive use of long structure PFASs, the most tenacious.

More responsible is the choice of those who are trying to abandon the use of PFAS altogether, investing time and resources in developing alternative materials and techniques. This is the case of Patagonia, a well-known American sports and outdoor clothing company, which has publicly committed to eliminating these compounds from its supply chain, communicating the progress it has made and also inviting consumers to support the change through more conscious purchasing behaviors.

The brand informs that waterproof garments for which a DWR treatment is not crucial – about 90% of the total – are already produced without the use of PFAS. That leaves 10% for which there is still no alternative solution, nothing at least that guarantees the performance which is essential for some specific sportswear. Patagonia correctly gives evidence of this, citing ongoing research to develop lower impact treatments.

Performance vs Sustainability

Dangers come not only from PFAS, of course. Every outfit we wear, every pair of shoes, every fashion accessory … is produced with extensive use of chemicals, which are not always harmless or sustainable. We have already mentioned the processes for waterproofing materials. But chemistry is also used to achieve color fastness or perform a long series of treatments.

Phthalates, for example, are used to give flexibility and softness to rubberized prints: in the long run, however, they can disrupt the body’s hormone balance when in contact with the skin. Chlorine – used to “bind” a great many dyes – and chromium, which is used to fix the color on the fabric, are known carcinogens. Formaldehyde is an eye and respiratory irritant gas used to fix pigments in the printing stage and also as a preservative in the packaging stage. Also strongly allergenic is nickel: watch out for dark or heavily colored jeans and garments because they are likely to contain significant amounts of it!

Do we ever stop to think, as consumers, about the consequences of the massive use of these substances? How much do factory discharges impact the sea we fish in or the rivers from which we draw water to irrigate our fields? And what damage does eating food from these fields cause to our health?

Regulations raise the bar on accountability

In recent years, regulatory authorities have been active on sustainable chemistry as never before, having as its primary goal the protection of human health, the environment and biodiversity. Let us cite, as an example, the 2021-2024 plan of the EPA – Environmental Protection Agency, the U.S. federal agency for the protection of the environment and human health, which gives mandatory directions for:

• Investing in research and innovation to increase understanding of PFAS exposures and toxicity to human health and the environment, thus developing effective countermeasures and solutions.
• Pursuing a comprehensive and proactive approach suitable for preventing PFAS penetration levels in air, soil, and water from negatively impacting human health and the environment.
• Deepening and accelerate PFAS decontamination to protect human health and environmental ecosystems.
• Eliminating PFAS from all products by 2030.

Other initiatives aimed at totally eliminating PFAS from products and production processes:

• On Jan. 13, 2023, authorities from Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden submitted a proposal to ECHA, the European Chemicals Agency, to ban the entire PFAS class of chemicals, with the ban taking effect between 2026 and 2027.
• A group of more than 40 NGOs urged EU countries to ban PFAS in products such as food packaging, cosmetics and clothing by 2025 and in absolute terms by 2030.
• Canada already bans the production, use, sale and import of PFOS (specific subgroups of PFAS, ed.) and PFOS-containing products.
• Japan bans the import of several products containing PFOA-related substances, another type of PFAS. The list includes various textile products with water and oil repellent properties, water and oil repellent coating agents, and so on.

A responsible Chemical Management system

The self-conscious cynicism for which the fashion system has been responsible in the past is slowly but surely giving way to sustainability policies that often see brands and supply chains working together on shared goals. Among these is good chemistry, which involves the elimination of chemicals hazardous to health and the environment from the fashion industry’s production cycles. Those same substances that have been used extensively over the past fifty years because they are inexpensive and high performing.

On this front, the major global initiative is Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), a working table that later became a Foundation joined by the major international fashion & luxury brands, the most advanced companies in the supply chain, chemical manufacturers, analytical laboratories, research organizations, associations and companies such as Process Factory that specialize in supporting the process of converting companies to good chemistry.

CHEM 4sustainability protocol

The case of Patagonia tells us how complex this process is to achieve with one’s own forces alone, due often to lack of knowledge, method, tools… This is the basis for the 4s CHEM protocol, the original core of the multidimensional 4sustainability implementation and assurance system that supports the transition to sustainability of fashion supply chain. The dimensions involved, in addition to chemistry, are all those identified by the Global Fashion Agenda as priorities for sustainable development.

4s CHEM, more precisely, supports the creation of a chemical management system along the entire processing chain aimed at eliminating hazardous chemicals from production cycles through the ZDHC methodology and by referring to its MRSL. The acronym stands for Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, a list of chemicals restricted in use precisely because of their hazardousness. PFASs also belong to this list.

Companies that adopt 4s CHEM commit among other things to eliminate the direct use of such substances, opting for chemicals that exclude the intentional use of substances included in the MRSL. The methodology applied includes supplier qualification procedures, in-company training activities, review of production processes, replacement of chemicals in production inventories and recipes, and measurement of wastewater to assess the level of sustainability of production processes and their impact on human health and the environment.

“It is a structured and credible way to demonstrate to the market one’s commitment to environmental impact reduction,” stresses Francesca Rulli, CEO of Process Factory and creator of the 4sustainability framework. “There are so many companies that are achieving compelling performance through the 4s CHEM protocol, contributing to groundwater cleanup and ecosystem protection in a concrete, measurable and verified way. The 4s Companies section of the 4sustainability website shows a wide selection of them, pointing to the activation of the other initiatives of the system as well, which is based – I want to reiterate – on recognized global methodologies for reducing impacts through a local and collaborative approach.
Replacing hazardous chemicals with more sustainable alternatives enables excellent paths of process and product innovation, contributing to the formation of critical thinking geared toward building a better future.”

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How can training support brands and supply chains in implementing a system for the elimination of toxic and harmful chemicals in production? What are, in this sense, the feedback from brands and supply chains?

This has been discussed on September 7^th at the ZDHC Progressing to Zero – Going beyond the foundations of Sustainable Chemical Management event. More specifically, the occasion is the panel moderated by Mariella Noto, Senior Implementation Manager of ZDHC, in which Fabiana Morandi, Environmental Sustainability Supervisor of Benetton Group, and Francesca Rulli, CEO of Process Factory and creator of the 4sustainability framework, have set out, respectively, the positions of the brands and those of a service provider that has always been accompanying the fashion supply chain in the implementation of concrete sustainability projects.

The 4s Chem system

“With our 4s Chem protocol, we’ve been supporting for years brands and supply chains in implementing the ZDHC roadmap,” said Rulli. “Training is a key driver to accompany companies on this jouney naturally aimed to excellence, it is the first step to create knowledge and culture, to encourage collaboration among different functions, to support companies in improving processes.

I’m referring to a set of activities – projects and continuous training – which allow to measure results and progress, improving the transparency of the entire value chain. All corporate responsibilities are involved to obtain increasingly qualifying performance: from product development to purchasing, to supplier and stock management … With 4s Chem – and its total alignment with ZDHC – we want to differentiate ourselves from one-off solutions that don’t make it possible to grow over time“.

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The audience

Participants in the virtual event on 24 March included many fashion brands and businesses in the supply chain: fabric dyeing and printing companies, tanneries, shoe factories and service providers that support the textile and leather industry in chemical management.

The program

What is the CMS TIG and how should it be interpreted? Two different interventions by Prasad Pant (South Asia Director of ZDHC) and Klass Nuttbohm (Implementation Director of the ZDHC Implementation HUB) made clear the various implementation aspects of the document and the Supplier to Zero Program, both developed for implementing the ZDHC roadmap to which the Chem 4sustainability® protocol also conforms.

One of the meeting’s highlights was the panel discussion which opened the works entitled The need for chemical management in textile and leather manufacturing. Prasad Pant moderated the debate among prominent personalities such as S. Karhtick, Program Manager and SCM of C&A, Dunstan Weragala, Manager of Hayleys Fabric PLC, Elisa Xu of Smart Shirts and Francesca Rulli, introduced to the public as the pioneer of chemical management and sustainability in Italy.

A shared standard for good chemistry

To what extent is the proper management of chemicals in production a priority for the fashion industry? Francesca Rulli returned to a theme that has always been dear to Process Factory, namely the need to adopt a common standard to create a measurable and comparable supply chain evaluation system. In this way only, indeed, it will be possible to measure and identify the necessary improvement actions, “rewarding” the most deserving suppliers as they are more committed to sustainability and good chemistry.

“In the last five years, attention to chemical management and sustainability has grown significantly, so much to be included in the vendor rating systems of some important fashion & luxury brands”, Rulli explained. “However, the number of realities applying a true strategy of sustainability and reduction of their own environmental impact is still small compared to the total volume of production and this means that the cost lever is that, unfortunately, still weighs more”.

Expectation for coming years is to see an acceleration towards sustainability and therefore a more equitable distribution of value such as to encourage widespread and continuous investments in innovation, also applied to sustainable chemistry.

Why should the supply chain adopt a private protocol like 4sustainability®?

“The companies in the supply chain receive increasingly strong pressures from the market, with different and sometimes contradictory requests for chemical compliance“, Rulli replied. “Implementing the ZDHC methodology through a single protocol such as Chem 4sustainability® means building a management system that adopts all the ZDHC tools and which at the same time allows to respond to market demands with a single investment, once and for all”.

The 4sustainability® system is in fact conceived and continuously updated in line with ZDHC standard and the brands’ inputs. The ultimate goal is to help the supply chain manage chemicals in production while respecting human health and the environment through an implementation process based on the process evaluation and the elimination of risk in the input phase.

The necessary dialogue between brands and supply chain

In Italy, over 160 companies already apply the Chem 4sustainability® protocol and constantly measure implementation KPIs to define improvement actions. This approach also allows the sharing of the best experiences and communication to the market, promotes innovation and the elimination of toxicities from production cycles.

Service providers, with their constant support to companies, play a key role. Asked about this by Prasad Pant, Francesca Rulli underlined how the matter is new for many. “For us – she said – joining the ZDHC Foundation by actively contributing to the work of the program was a great opportunity. Exchanging views allows the various stakeholders to grow together and share knowledge and best practices. The role of the service provider as a hinge between brands and the supply chain becomes fundamental in this sense. Direct experience on many processes and companies with different situations and cultures, in fact, refines skills and stimulates developing of solutions tested on the market. Solutions which are always in line with the expectations of ZDHC and the operators who adopt its approach”.

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Knowing how to protect yourself

When the production cost is very low, in any case there is someone who pays and this “someone” is people and / or the environment. In other terms, it is not said that the fashion items we like so much, whether branded or not, are risk-free, meaning produced without the use of potentially harmful chemicals. It’s all the fault of an ever faster fashion, of collections that chase each other to maximize sales and profits. The moral is if I want to make a conscious purchase, I must first inform myself, knowing that, a priori, neither the brand nor the Made in Italy label can completely preserve me from risks.

Let’s start by saying that it’s very likely that chemistry is used to obtain the color fastness to washing, a water-repellent performance or an anti-stain treatment. Have we ever wondered what the effects of these processes are on the environment? How much impact do the factories’ discharges in the sea where we fish or in the rivers from which we draw water to irrigate and what damage do we suffer to our health through the foods we eat and the clothes we wear?

The role of brands, from great accused to active players of change

Greenpeace‘s attacks on the major fashion brands that years ago began to stir the conscience on issues such as the indiscriminate exploitation of resources, the use of child labor, violations of workers’ rights … have brought to light very serious responsibilities and abuses that can be charged, if not directly to the brands known to the general public, to their supply chains, on which at best a facade monitoring was exercised because that was convenient for it to be.

Since the Rhana Plaza tragedy in 2013 – the worst accident ever to hit the textile sector, with over a thousand workers killed in the collapse of the run-down Dhaka plant in Bangladesh – many things have fortunately changed. The conscious cynicism of which many production companies have make them guilty is slowly giving way to sustainability and social responsibility policies many suppliers are also involved in. The idea behind the change is that we must work together to achieve gradual but rigorous objectives that should be binding for everyone. Among these is good chemistry, which consists in the elimination of chemicals that are dangerous to health and the environment from the various production cycles of the fashion industry. It is about those same substances that have been heavily used in the last fifty years due their cheapness and high performance.

On this front, the largest global initiative born in response to the accusations of Greenpeace and other NGOs is Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals – ZDHC, a working table that later became a foundation that brings together the leading international fashion & luxury brands, the most advanced realities in the supply chain, chemical producers, analysis laboratories, research institutes, associations and companies such as Process Factory specialized in supporting businesses in their conversion roadmap to good chemistry and, more generally, to sustainability as a development strategy.

The Made in Italy “warranty”

It is also necessary to shed light on the wording Made in Italy and the tendency to attribute to it an extended meaning of guarantee that it has not necessarily. Let’s say the t-shirt or sweater in our example were actually designed and sewn in Italy. This will be sufficient to write Made in Italy on the label, without obligation for the manufacturer to specify that the raw material, washing, dyeing, etc. were performed on the other side of the world.

Now, if there’re no legal obligations, if there’s no third party that controls, if laws are few and fragmented and each country behaves as it sees fit, I as a consumer will have very little means to make an informed purchasing decision.

I can rely on common sense, of course. And common sense should prompt me a few questions at least. I should ask myself, for example, how is it possible that in the various steps that go from the row material selection to the distribution of the finished garment in stores – by passing through the yarn production and fabric transformation – everyone gains a little and that, at the same time, workers are paid fairly, the factory kept safe, water and energy consumption reduced and the use of toxic or harmful chemicals avoided. There is something wrong, evidently. What is my contribution to the system if I close my eyes, if I just adapt without asking myself what’s the story behind a product and what damage could I receive?

To each his own role

The matter is broad even if we want to limit ourselves only to chemical management, that is to say chemistry used to produce what we wear. Certainly, everyone is called to do their part: the legislator who must pass more advanced and rigorous laws, governments that must apply them, supervisory bodies that must ensure compliance, judiciary that must rigorously sanction any violations and the consumer who must demand to be informed.

Brands and supply chain must work together to eliminate toxic and harmful chemicals to health and the environment from production cycles, possibly relying on recognized protocols such as the 4sustainability® brand aligned with the ZDHC approach. This is an ethical choice on a voluntary basis, of course, but also a business strategy.

In addition to the due respect for current regulations and the more stringent ones to come, there is a growing market share that carries out virtuous processes and sustainable alternatives, committing itself even before Covid-19 intervened to emphasize the system crisis and the need for accelerate towards a direction that is now obligatory: responsible production.

“The protagonist are the consumers, who despite being still little informed on these issues and often lacking tools to understand more, demonstrate a growing sensitivity and the willingness to learn in order to behave responsibly”, says Francesca Rulli, Founder and CEO of Process Factory/4sustainability®. “This means ‘rewarding’ brands that show they really want to clean up their production processes, bringing products with clear, reliable and understandable labels to the store – physical or virtual – and preparing the staff to respond and inform the consumer about the sustainability attributes of the garments, starting with the transparency of the production chain: how were they produced and where, through which steps?”

Tips for shopping

While waiting for all the mosaic tiles to go into their place, let’s give some useful information for an informed purchase even if there is not a well-made label. The first thing to know – we said – is that some substances dangerous for our health are commonly used in the clothes production. Phthalates, for example, are used to give flexibility and softness to rubberised prints: in contact with our skin, they can in the long run alter the body’s hormonal balance.

A huge chapter is that of dyes, which can contain carcinogenic substances such as aromatic amines. Known carcinogens are chlorine – used to “bind” many dyes – and chromium, which is to fix the color on the fabric. Formaldehyde is an irritating gas for the eyes and respiratory tract used to fix pigments in the printing phase, as well as a preservative in the packaging phase. Nickel is also highly allergenic: beware of jeans and dark or very colored garments because it is likely that they contain significant quantities of it.

Obviously, this is not the place to deal with such a broad topic. The point is that prolonged contact with these substances can cause multiple problems, from “trivial” allergic reactions to hormonal imbalances, to cancers of varying seriousness. Moreover, by washing garments these substances partly end up in the water and therefore in the environment, with the imaginable consequences in terms of pollution and the possibility of coming into contact with them again through the food we eat.

“I believe this is enough to make the expression ‘chemical management’ a little less distant from our daily life and a little more interesting, right? It is something – Rulli underlines – that companies and those like us who work with them must certainly deal with to improve production processes in a sustainable perspective, but that every single individual should care about and reward with his/her purchasing behavior. And this not to enrich one brand rather than another, but because our health and that of the planet and the future of our children are at stake”.

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SCHEDULED SESSIONS

Waiting for the 2021 complete calendar, there’re three courses already scheduled: in February, the basic course Chemical Management in the Textile Industry, for the first time in English; always in February, the basic course Chemical Management in the Textile Industry, in Italian; in March, always in Italian, the advanced course Top 10 Issues of Chemical Management.

The formula for the three new dates is the one already tested in 2020: unique online sessions spread over three consecutive days, with modules of 2 and a half hours each to make attendance more comfortable and optimize the distance learning experience.

Webinar Chemical Management in the Textile Industry (English)
8-9-10 February 2020

The course is structured to meet the specific features of the Italian supply chain and provides basic knowledge on MRSL and chemical risk assessment, process mapping and communication between the different links in the supply chain, chemical inventory, environmental impact mitigation measures, role of the chemical manager, etc.

Webinar Chemical Management in the Textile Industry (Italian)
23-24-25 February 2020

Same program and purpose of the January session, but in Italian.

Webinar Top 10 Issues of Chemical Management (Italian)
16-17-18 March 2020

The goal of the webinar is to identify possible critical issues in implementing a chemical management system, to define the most suitable solutions to overcome the operational challenges within the organization, to qualify the company management system of chemicals in production.

HOW TO REGISTER?

All the Process Factory branded course provide for a limited number of attendees to offer an optimal training experience. To register for the pre-scheduled sessions, you need to:

1. register on the ZDHC Academy Platform by selecting the course of your interest
2. fill in the form of the chosen session available online in the ZDHC Courses section of the 4sustainability website

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